Exploring the Art of Arabic Calligraphy in Tunisia

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Exploring the Art of Arabic Calligraphy in Tunisia

My journey began with the sound of a brush gliding across paper, creating a delightful squeak. “Do it again,” encouraged my warm-hearted teacher. Just a few more tries, and I would have the perfect brown ink mark to write my name in Arabic calligraphy.

I found myself standing in a traditional house in the old Medina district of Tunis, the capital of Tunisia, where I was learning about the art of Arabic calligraphy from Hamza Chebbi, a gentle and passionate young artist. I’ve written all my life, but I’ve never been considered to have beautiful handwriting. Yet, I’ve always been captivated by the grace and elegance of calligraphy.

Connecting with Heritage

I’m the kind of person who still loves sending real postcards home. The days of letter-writing, taking time with each letter, feel so romantic to me. But in Canada, handwriting is gradually becoming a forgotten art.

In Tunisia, where Arabic calligraphy has a centuries-old history, I realized artisans like Hamza are preserving this beauty. During my Premium Tunisia trip with Intrepid, I spotted calligraphy everywhere—from temples to museums and even on street walls in a modern style known as 'calligrafitti.'

The Artisan's Tools

On the table, Hamza laid out his tools: small ink pots made from silk fibers—easy to manipulate and quick-drying. We used brown ink, his favorite color. There was also a stack of handmade bamboo pens. When he handed one to me, I felt a bit anxious; it resembled chopsticks more than a pen.

Hamza helped me adjust the angle of the pen just right. As the ink touched the white paper, I began to find a flow in each stroke, laughter mingling with humility in every attempt.

A Recognized Cultural Heritage

When it comes to Arabic calligraphy, Hamza mentioned there are up to 47 different styles. He opened a notebook to show me beautiful samples featuring styles like Kufic, Thuluth, and Diwani. Hamza started with the Diwani style while studying fine arts in Nabeul, about 70 km from Tunis.

“As a child, I always loved to draw and sketch. When I learned I could use calligraphy not just for writing but to create artistic paintings, I fell in love with it,” Hamza shared.

A Blend of Tradition and Modernity

Arabic calligraphy originated from the need to document important texts, such as the Qur'an. Over time, artists have developed new styles and created patterns for various forms of art. Now, a talented artisan can make a living by designing logos, signs, or wedding invitations.

When I asked Hamza about teaching calligraphy to youth in schools, I was surprised to learn it isn’t part of the curriculum. He is trying to change this by developing a program for elementary schools.

Stories Through Calligraphy

Arabic calligraphy is not just writing; it’s a connection. Hamza said you don’t need to know how to read to feel it. As we practiced in class, we talked about art, and I realized that calligraphy is practiced in many countries like Morocco, Lebanon, Egypt, and the UAE, but Tunisia is home to many renowned artisans.

I had seen calligraphy in art and architecture long before, but I never had the chance to dive deep into this visual language until I arrived in Tunisia.

Experiencing a Culture Full of Passion

As I left the house, I felt a small sense of pride in writing my name in Arabic calligraphy—though it wasn’t perfect, it felt beautiful. Later, I came across a piece of calligrafitti on a construction wall and realized that this lesson had not only given me a new skill but also opened a door to understanding Tunisian culture.

And when our group visited Kairouan, I recalled the lesson about the Kairouani style used for religious texts. In the Bardo Museum in Tunis, as I gazed at pages from the famous 9th-century Qur'an, I felt the pride of Tunisians displaying it.

On the coastal streets of Sidi Bou Said, I discovered street art where calligraphy expressed public emotions. Although I couldn’t read it, I understood that in a country with such a rich history as Tunisia, the story continues to be written.

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